Ryan McKibbon – the fourth – has been rising to the challenge, one vintage at a time. “There is a bit of weight on your shoulders, stepping into this role,” he said. “Not only are the wines legendary, but so are the vineyards. This is such a special pocket of land. It has so much to share and so much to give.”

The history

In 1996, Senka and Bob Tennant, along with Peter and Susan McCarrell, bought land on the Okanagan Valley’s Black Sage Bench near Oliver, B.C. Back then, Black Sage wasn’t particularly well known, but that was about to change.

The Tennants established the Sharp Rock and Double Black vineyards along the bench, planting them with Bordeaux varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Their original intention was simply to sell the fruit to wineries in the region, but when they realized how good the fruit was, they decided to start their own winery, with Senka serving as winemaker.

In 1999, they released the first vintage of Nota Bene, their flagship Bordeaux-style red blend. It didn’t take long for Nota Bene to develop a cult following, and following vintages sold out quickly. When the 2006 vintage was released, it sold out in just 47 minutes. “It isn’t just some little barrel selection,” McKibbon said. “It is a showcase of a given year and a given vintage.”

Black Hills Estate Winery – and the Black Sage Bench – were firmly established on the Okanagan wine map. Black Hills was sold in 2007 to Vinequest Wine Partners, an Alberta-based group. In 2017, it was acquired by Andrew Peller Ltd. and became part of its portfolio of wineries across B.C. and Ontario. It’s a big umbrella, but individual properties operate more or less independently.

“We are very lucky that in terms of structure, we get left alone to make the wines we want to make,” McKibbon said.

The team

McKibbon joined the Black Hills team in August 2022, working with winemaker Ross Wise, who joined the winery in 2018. When Wise’s role expanded to become director of winemaking for Andrew Peller Ltd., McKibbon took over as head winemaker (the pair had previously worked together at Phantom Creek Estate Winery).

While Andrew Peller Ltd. is international in scope, the Black Hills team is considerably smaller. There are roughly six full-time people on the winemaking team, while the tasting room and vineyard teams expand considerably during the hectic summer months.

Melanie Rusch is the Black Hills assistant winemaker, and Lissette Alvarez is the cellar master. Sam Strachan is the estate manager, overseeing hospitality, events and the annual Nota Bene release. Susan Watkins is the winery’s brand manager, handling marketing and trade. Finally, Shane Alaric, Kayla Halldorsen and Jordan Powell are also part of the team.

The wines

Nota Bene may dominate many of the Black Hills headlines, but the team also produces a wide array of other wines, including a Chardonnay, the Per Se Cabernet Franc, Syrah and a single-variety Carmenere. The Carmenere grape was originally planted for the Nota Bene blend but proved to be intensely aromatic and very popular on its own. Addendum is their Merlot-Cabernet Franc blend. They also produce an award-winning sparkling brut made from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. It undergoes traditional-method fermentation and rests on its yeast for 40 months before disgorging.

“Not a lot of people know about it, but we put a lot of time and effort into our sparkling wine program. It’s a passion project, and it’s really inspiring,” McKibbon said, adding that visitors to the tasting room are often offered a glass of bubbles when they arrive.

McKibbon is also excited about the wines they’re producing from Rhône varieties. Bona Fide is their Syrah-dominant red blend, and they also offer a single-variety Syrah bottling. “The Syrah is very expressive of the Black Sage Bench terroir,” he said, adding that Roussanne and Marsanne, two white French grapes, do especially well in the area. “And they’re a lot of fun to make,” he said.

The wines are primarily sold in B.C., and most are purchased by collectors who buy directly from the winery, either through the winery website or the wine club. Select releases are also available in Alberta.

The vineyards

Like so many Okanagan wineries, Black Hills was deeply affected by the 2024 deep freeze, which killed many of the region’s vines and, in some cases, wiped out entire varieties. The 2024 Nota Bene, part of the winery’s new Hiatus Collection, had to be made from fruit grown in Oregon. But the Black Hills team was lucky enough to replant.

“It’s like starting from scratch. We essentially remapped and reworked everything,” McKibbon said. “We planted a bit of Carmenere in the same spots, but a lot of other things have been moved around. As vintages got warmer, certain varieties weren’t in the best spots for what they needed – our Merlot, for instance. Now they are, we hope.”

While they had used the red-grape variety Tempranillo before, they had bought it from a nearby grower. Now, they have planted their own bush-trained (gobelet) Tempranillo using an ancient vineyard management style that allows vines to grow free-standing. “The bush-trained vineyards are adapting to climate change much more easily than trellis-trained vineyards,” said McKibbon.

Black Hills also recently introduced a Roussanne-based Rhône-style white blend, and they’ve planted some of their own estate Viognier for the first time.

The process

Climate change has meant that harvest is starting much earlier than it did in the winery’s first few years. “We just work with whatever the season gives us,” McKibbon said. Last year, they began picking in August, but the final grapes didn’t arrive until the first few weeks of November. McKibbon expects the 2026 harvest to be similar. “We’re all wrapped up by the start of December,” he said. “Everything’s just chilling out and entering its maturation phase.”

All the grapes are hand-harvested and hand-sorted once they arrive at the winemaking facility. While McKibbon has used optical grape-sorter machines in the past, he prefers to have real people make the decisions about which grapes go through. “I think [the optical sorters] are very good, but they remove a little of the variation and complexity,” he said. “I don’t mind the odd underripe berry getting through. It adds to the wine’s character.”

Equipment includes an Armbruster Rotovib Destemmer, a small Bucher JLB 12 Basket Press, and a Willmes Merlin wine press from Germany for their white wine grapes. “All the white grapes are whole-bunch pressed, very long and slow,” he said. “The quality is much better that way.”

Red ferments are primarily in stainless steel, while concrete vessels are mostly used for whites to add depth, he said. The oak program includes foudre, puncheon and barrique, and almost all barrels are French oak, with a few from Austria. From McKibbon’s perspective, less is always more. “We want the wines to speak for themselves,” he said.

While the winery does not follow organic or biodynamic winemaking practices, it works toward sustainability across every facet of the business. The tasting room kitchen, for instance, focuses on local and regional ingredients, and down the road, there are plans to add solar panels to help power the facility. The winery is also a proud member of Wine Growers Canada.

“We’re one of the largest vineyard holders in B.C. We want to be sure we are a good steward of our industry and that we are helping wherever we can,” said McKibbon.

The next chapter

Wildfire smoke has certainly been a challenge in recent years, as has leaf roll virus, which affects fruit clusters. There is no cure yet.

“Leaf roll virus was always something to navigate during harvest, as you get varying levels of ripeness throughout the block,” McKibbon said, adding that he is hopeful that replanting the vineyards will eliminate the virus and that it will be a smoke-free summer. “We should have a small crop from our estate vineyards this summer, which is exciting to see. And in two to three years, we’ll be back up to full production.”

The Operating Agreement on Direct-to-Consumer Sales of Alcoholic Beverages represents one of the most significant advances in reducing Canada’s internal trade barriers affecting Canadian consumers and wineries in decades. It establishes a common framework that will allow Canadians to purchase wine directly from licensed wineries across provincial borders for personal consumption.

Alberta, Saskatchewan, Manitoba, Ontario, New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island and Newfoundland and Labrador are now implementing their approaches to DTC sales. British Columbia, which already permits direct-to-consumer sales of Canadian wine, has committed to implementing DTC for all alcohol categories by February 2027.

“This is a landmark achievement for Canadian consumers and wineries,” said Dan Paszkowski, president and CEO of WGC. “For almost two decades, WGC has advocated for Canadians to have the right to purchase Canadian wine directly from wineries regardless of provincial borders. [This] agreement is the culmination of years of collaboration between governments and industry and represents a transformational step toward a truly national Canadian wine marketplace.”

Deloitte’s independent 2026 report on the future of Canada’s wine industry identified Canada’s fragmented domestic market as the single greatest barrier to the industry’s long-term growth and competitiveness. The agreement directly addresses that challenge by expanding consumer choice and providing wineries with greater access to markets across Canada.

At a time when governments are working to strengthen Canada’s economy, reduce internal trade barriers and encourage Canadians to buy Canadian, this agreement will make it easier for consumers to support Canadian wineries, grape growers, tourism businesses and rural communities.

WGC recognized the leadership of the participating premiers and the extensive work undertaken by provincial officials to develop the agreement and the systems required for implementation. “[This] agreement demonstrates what governments can achieve when they work together to remove longstanding internal trade barriers,” said Paszkowski. “Our focus now shifts from reaching agreement to delivering results for Canadian consumers and wineries.”

WGC encouraged all signatory governments to complete operational implementation by the end of 2026 wherever possible. While the agreement establishes a national framework, Canadians and wineries will realize its full benefits only when every participating jurisdiction has completed implementation, and the system is fully operational. WGC also encouraged participating governments to maintain zero or very low direct-to-consumer levies and administrative charges.

The success of the agreement should be measured by whether it expands consumer access and winery sales, not by replacing traditional liquor board markups with new barriers that discourage direct-to-consumer commerce. Quebec and Yukon participated in developing the agreement and are establishing the infrastructure required to implement DTC sales, with the objective of joining in the near future.

“[The] agreement marks the beginning of a new era for Canadian wine,” said Paszkowski. “Canadians will have greater access to Canadian wines than ever before, while wineries gain access to new markets across the country. Our work now continues to ensure implementation is completed quickly, direct-to-consumer levies remain low, and governments continue building a truly integrated Canadian wine marketplace.”

While today’s agreement represents a landmark achievement, additional work remains to strengthen Canada’s domestic wine market. Wine Growers Canada will continue working with governments to:

• Support the timely implementation of direct-to-consumer wine sales across Canada
• Encourage all participating jurisdictions to maintain zero or very low DTC levies and administrative fees
• Expand opportunities for Canadian wines within provincial liquor retail systems across the country
• Encourage provinces to extend successful provincial wine support programs, such as the BC Quality Program, Ontario VQA Support Program and similar provincial initiatives, to eligible Canadian wine sold into other participating provinces.

Together, these measures will help create a stronger domestic market for Canadian wine, provide greater consumer choice, support investment by Canadian wineries and further reduce barriers to internal trade.

The Canadian Wine Supercluster: An Economic Engine examines the combined impact of Canada’s regional wine clusters across six wine producing provinces: British Columbia, Ontario, Quebec, Nova Scotia, New Brunswick and Prince Edward Island. It highlights the sector’s growing national integration and outlines policy actions that could unlock its full economic potential.

The white paper provides a policy road map to unlocking nearly $4 billion in economic potential, guided by federal priorities on reducing internal trade barriers and rural development.

“Wine is more than an agricultural product, it underpins a broad, place-based value chain that supports manufacturing, tourism, transportation and cultural industries,” said Dan Paszkowski, president and CEO of Wine Growers Canada (WGC). “The Canadian wine sector also generates significant strategic spillovers, driving tourism, innovation, domestic and export sales and sustained growth in rural communities across the country.”

The report estimates that the wine industry directly contributes $3.2 billion to Canada’s GDP, with an additional $6.9 billion generated through interconnected sectors, reinforcing its role as a stable, high value contributor to the Canadian economy. The study also highlights the opportunity presented by ongoing interprovincial trade reform. If Canadian wines were to reach a 51 percent domestic wine sales market share, the sector’s total annual GDP contribution could increase by $3.6 billion.

Despite strong performance and steady growth over the past decade, the report finds that Canada continues to lag leading wine producing countries that benefit from co-ordinated government industry strategies, long-term market development programs and fewer internal trade barriers.

The white paper identifies four priority policy areas where targeted government action could accelerate growth:

• Domestic and international market development
• Federal leadership in economic development co-ordination
• Enhancing sector competitiveness and investment conditions
• Capital investment and sustainability programs

“Canada’s wine industry is uniquely positioned to grow as a nationally connected supercluster,” said Del Rollo, chair of WGC. “By strengthening internal trade, supporting investment and improving market access, governments can help unlock the full economic potential of Canadian wine from coast to coast.”

About the Report

The Canadian Wine Supercluster: An Economic Engine provides a policy-ready framework to strengthen domestic growth, improve competitiveness and unlock long-term investment in Canada’s wine sector.

This year’s distinguished recipients are:

• Canadian Wine Industry Award of Distinction – the Stewart Family
• Canadian Wine Industry Champion Award – Miles Prodan
• The Karl Kaiser Canadian Winemaker Award – Andrzej Lipiński
• WGBC Leadership Excellence Award – Rhys Pender
• WGBC Ultimate B.C. Wine Ambassador Award – Brynne Dickson
• WGBC Master Marketer Award – Jenna White, That BC Wine Girl

2026 Canadian Wine Industry Awards

The Canadian Wine Industry Awards, sponsored by the national accounting, tax and business firm MNP, are presented annually by WGC. They recognize individuals, organizations and businesses that have gone above and beyond to support and enhance Canada’s wine industry.

“[The 2026] Canadian Wine Industry Awards have showcased our diverse industry, and everyone at WGC is honoured to recognize the outstanding contribution, dedication and expertise of the winners…. These annual awards celebrate these individuals who have contributed so much to our industry and helped it grow to the $11.5 billion industry it is today,” said Dan Paszkowski, president and CEO, WGC.

The winner of the Canadian Wine Industry Award of Distinction, regarded as one of the highest forms of peer recognition in the Canadian wine industry, was the Stewart Family from Quails’ Gate Winery in West Kelowna, B.C. “Early adopters of vinifera in the Okanagan Valley, this fourth-generation farming family, through their dedication to premium quality wines and unique culinary experiences, helped establish the Okanagan Valley as one of North America’s most compelling cool-climate wine regions,” said Paszkowski.

The Wine Industry Champion Award, presented to an individual who has provided exemplary support to the Canadian wine industry through media, policy or advocacy, was given to Miles Prodan.

“[Prodan] led [WGBC] for 14 years, bringing a strategic vision to the role, that connected wine, tourism and regional economic growth. Nationally, he was tenacious in his advocacy supporting interprovincial ,” said Paszkowski. “We’ve seen considerable provincial momentum this past year to permit interprovincial direct-to-consumer wine sales, but it’s important to remember the efforts of all of those, including Miles, who advocated in support of that over many years.”

The Karl Kaiser Canadian Winemaker Award was created in 2018 to celebrate great Canadian winemakers, in honour of the legacy of the late Karl Kaiser, a Canadian wine industry pioneer and viticultural visionary. The recipient of this year’s award was Andrzej Lipiński of Big Head Wines in Niagara, Ont.

“Founder of Big Head Wines, [Lipiński’s] wines have won medals around the world, most recently winning the prize for the Best Chenin Blanc at Wine Paris 2024,” said Paszkowski. “His pioneering work using appassimento, wild fermentation and a range of other techniques stands out, as do his contributions to the Niagara wine industry more broadly.”

2026 British Columbia Industry Recognition Awards

The WGBC Industry Recognition Awards are presented annually in acknowledgement of outstanding achievements and contributions to the B.C. wine industry. The categories of Leadership Excellence, Ultimate B.C. Wine Ambassador and Master Marketer celebrate individuals who exemplify visionary leadership, champion B.C. wine with passion and authenticity, and set the standard for creativity and impact in marketing and promotion.

“Behind every bottle of B.C. wine is a passionate individual helping to shape something bigger,” said WGBC CEO and president Jeff Guignard. “These awards are about recognizing those who are championing our industry today while building the future of B.C. wine in real time, driven by a shared belief in its incredible potential.”

The Leadership Excellence Award honours a non-winery individual, business or organization whose work has meaningfully advanced the B.C. wine industry and B.C. VQA wine through media, research, policy, regulation, education or advocacy. Past recipients include respected winemakers Séverine Pinte (Le Vieux Pin & LaStella) and Michael Bartier (Bartier Bros. Vineyard & Winery). This year’s recipient was Rhys Pender, co-owner and winemaker of Little Farm Winery in the Similkameen Valley.

The Ultimate B.C. Wine Ambassador Award celebrates a frontline winery professional who brings passion, knowledge and authenticity to every guest interaction, creating memorable experiences while fostering a positive and engaged team environment. Past recipients include Bram Bolwijn and Robbie Hundertmark. This year’s recipient was Brynne Dickson of CedarCreek Estate Winery.

The Master Marketer Award recognizes an innovative individual or organization that has demonstrated creativity and impact in promoting B.C. wines. Open to wineries, regional wine associations, retailers, restaurants and tourism organizations, this award celebrates those who think beyond the expected to elevate B.C. wine. The 2026 recipient is Jenna White, creator of the brand That BC Wine Girl.

To learn more about the Canadian Wine Industry Awards, visit winegrowerscanada.ca/canadian-wine-industry-awards, and for more details about the WGBC Industry Recognition Awards, visit winebc.com/industry/industry-recognition-awards.

However, at Pelee Island Winery in southern Ontario, the ferry is a major part of the harvest work day. In fact, it’s the only way the team can get grapes from the winery’s island vineyards to their crush facilities at Kingsville on the mainland for processing.

“Harvest turns everybody’s schedules upside down for sure,” said Annemarie Heikenwalder, the winery’s managing director. “Our team gets up at midnight to start work and get the bins filled for the first ferry at 7 a.m. to go to the mainland. We rely on that ferry. Harvest wouldn’t happen without it.”

Located 380 kilometres southeast of Toronto, on the western edge of Lake Erie, Pelee Island Winery is located on, in case the winery’s name wasn’t obvious, Pelee Island. The name dates back to the 1700s and likely comes from the French word pelée meaning “bare.” With a year-round population of just 300 people, it is the largest island in Lake Erie and the southernmost populated part of Canada, on the same latitude as northern California and Tuscany, Italy.

The winery itself has roots dating to before Canada was a country, with the first wine grapes being planted on the land in 1854. Canada’s first commercial winery, Vin Villa, was established on the land in 1866, a year before Confederation.

However, it wasn’t until 1979 that the winery’s modern era truly began, when Walter Strehn established Pelee Island Vineyards. The first vintage was released in 1980, and three years later, the tasting room was built on the mainland, in Kingsville, Ont., on the north shore of Lake Erie.

Now, with more than 700 acres of vineyards, the winery is the largest private estate winery in Canada and is owned by a private investor who chooses to stay out of the public eye. With a background in farming and aviation leadership, Heikenwalder came on board in 2023. She now oversees a team of around 65 people, which swells to more than 100 during the summer months.

Walter Schmoranz, Pelee Island Winery’s former winemaker, retired after working with the winery for more than 35 years. Winemaker Danie De Bruyn joined a few months ago. From South Africa, De Bruyn studied oenology in Stellenbosch and has worked at estates around the world, including stints in France and New Zealand, as well as Dunstone Estate in South Africa’s Cape Winelands. At Pelee Island, he and his team are making between 1.8 and two million litres of wine each year; more than 70 wines from more than 40 different grape varieties. Harvest starts early, in mid-August, and typically continues through to the end of October.

The winery is in the process of updating equipment, including the Gregoire harvesters – the grapes are currently all machine-harvested – and adding a cross-flow filter.

Main white varieties include Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc and Gewurztraminer; main red varieties include Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Merlot and Blaufrankisch, a high-tannin, late-ripening varietal originally from Austria. They have also recently planted Gruner Veltliner, a white grape from Eastern Europe. “It’s growing quite well, and we are expecting a small harvest in the coming year,” Heikenwalder said.

I always say that the winery couldn’t live without the island, and the island couldn’t live without the winery.

Annemarie Heikenwalder, Pelee Island Winery

The semi-sweet Merlot and the Gewurztraminer are big sellers, but the most popular label is the Lola sparkling rosé, which is made from a blend of Vidal blanc and Chambourcin. “It’s my favourite, especially in the summer,” said Heikenwalder.

They also have several low-alcohol wines, in response to a market that has potential and is expanding, she says. Keeping residual sugar levels low is also important for them. “It’s something that is very near and dear to our hearts,” she said, adding that the entire lineup is also vegan-certified. Various wines from the portfolio are for sale across Canada, including Nunavut, Heikenwalder says. They also sell internationally, including in China, the U.S. and Taiwan.

In addition to the typical 750-mL bottle, some wines are offered in 375-mL and magnum bottles. Several are offered in three-litre bags-in-boxes, and the Lola line also comes in 250-mL single-serve aluminum bottles.

Custom labels are a big part of their business; clients appreciate the ability to create labels with their own art for special occasions. These labels are also part of their charitable initiatives. Working with the local humane society, the winery offers customers a chance to get a wine bottle with their pet on the label. “A portion from each sale goes to help rescue animals and to provide support to shelters,” Heikenwalder said.

Giving back is important for everyone at Pelee Island Winery, she says. A portion of all tasting fees goes toward charity and initiatives that benefit the local community. This past August, tasting room donations were donated to Nature Conservancy of Canada’s regional work. The winery is also helping the community with money for improvements for the island’s airport.

“The Ontario government doesn’t consider Pelee Island to be a remote community, but in the winter, there is only aircraft service to get you here,” Heikenwalder said. “And that’s how nurses come to the island to support its residents.”

The winery is the island’s largest employer, she says, and with that comes a responsibility. “I always say that the winery couldn’t live without the island, and the island couldn’t live without the winery,” she said. “Supporting the island is essential. It is a necessary part of our business.”

So is supporting the land. The winery isn’t organic, but does practice sustainability. For example, post-production grape skins are composted on the island. “When you’re farming, you want to give back to the earth as much as you can,” she said. “That balance with nature is something that we feel is very important.”

Being part of Wine Growers Canada has also been a positive experience for the winery, says Heikenwalder. “We do a lot of work with the government and this helps us achieve our goals,” she said. “In farming, our perspective is very much focused on being local, but Wine Growers Canada gives us a considerably broader perspective.”

Although she can’t yet discuss everything happening behind the scenes, there are changes in the works, Heikenwalder says. This season, for instance, they won’t be making icewine, and they may not make it in the coming years. To make icewine, the temperature must drop to -8ºC so the grapes can freeze naturally on the vine. However, if the grapes hang on the vine for too long before freezing, they dry out, along with much of the sweet juice, she says.

“We are seeing later and later colder weather and it just isn’t optimal for the icewine grapes,” she said. Much of what Pelee Island Winery’s visitors, Canadian and international, have come to expect and love at the winery won’t change. They’ll find beauty, calm and nature, whether they visit the year-round tasting room in Kingsville or head over to the island in summer to taste under the grand pavilion.

“Kingsville has such a European flair to it. It’s a beautiful little town with some of the best restaurants I’ve ever eaten at,” Heikenwalder said. “And when you go to the island, there’s this feeling when you get off the ferry and you barely have cellphone reception. All your worries stay behind, and you can really just relax and enjoy the wines and the beauty of nature.”

Expect some fresh new wines to try down the road. “We’re experimenting with some new winemaking styles, but I can’t talk about that yet,” she said. “Ultimately, we plan to continue to produce high quality wines that people seek out and enjoy drinking.”

And, indeed, keep that ferry moving.

The letter, signed by WGC, Wine Growers British Columbia, Wine Growers Ontario, Wine Growers Nova Scotia and Ontario Craft Wineries, reads:

“Canadians are facing real economic pressure. At a time when affordability, consumer choice, and domestic economic resilience matter more than ever, your collective efforts to reduce interprovincial trade barriers are both timely and necessary. Through the Council of the Federation, Premiers have shown leadership in recognizing that Canada’s internal market should work better for Canadians, and that goods produced here should be easier to buy here.

One of the clearest and most practical opportunities to deliver on that promise is the creation of an open national wine sales market including a harmonized direct-to-consumer (DTC) wine delivery agreement made in July 2025 to develop DTC operating agreements/frameworks by May 2026.”

That summer, she moved to her family’s cottage in Malagash, N.S., to study for the admissions exam. Hoping to land some work, she dropped off her resume at Jost Vineyards, a winery located a kilometre or so away from the cottage. “I couldn’t just study all summer. I needed to make some money,” she said. “But I knew nothing about wine, really.” That was about to change. Hans Christian Jost, then owner of Jost Vineyards, had the team taste through the winery’s entire lineup of wine. “I was fascinated. I couldn’t get enough of it,” Haverstock said. “It was a whole new world for me.”

The Jost family started Jost Vineyards in northern Nova Scotia in 1983, one of the first wineries in the province. They planted the first vineyard in the Gaspereau Valley in 1997. In 2004, Gaspereau Vineyards opened its doors to the public.

Gaspereau is situated on an almost 50-acre estate vineyard outside the town of Wolfville. The team farms 50-acres of vineyards, including 12 that were planted in spring 2014. In 2012, Jost and Gaspereau Vineyards were sold to Carl and Donna Sparkes and a short time later, an existing vineyard (now Mercator Vineyards) was purchased. The three wineries now operate under the Devonian Coast Wineries umbrella, and in 2018, Haverstock was named head winemaker for all. Each winery has its own unique style that focuses on different grape varieties and different winemaking techniques.

Gaspereau Vineyards is a boutique winery focusing on premium wines, including aromatic and terroir-driven whites and rosés and food-friendly reds. With the exception of Riesling, the only vinifera grape planted at Gaspereau, all their plantings are hybrids. Hybrid varietals include L’Acadie, New York Muscat, Marquette, Seyval Blanc, Vidal and Petite Milo.

The team is especially proud of their Tidal Bay wines, Nova Scotia’s signature white wine style and the province’s first and only wine appellation. Tidal Bay wines are crisp, aromatic white blends that must be made from grapes grown entirely within the province, and every vintage of each wine must be approved by an independent tasting panel. At least 51 per cent of the final blend must be made up of L’Acadie Blanc, Seyval Blanc, Vidal or Geisenheim 318, in combination or individually. Other grape varieties, including Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Frontenac Blanc, are optional and can be included up to a combined total of 49 per cent of the final blend, with the most aromatic varieties limited to a maximum of 15 per cent of the blend.

“Tidal Bay wines represent Nova Scotia’s terroir as a crisp, fruit-forward white blend that pairs naturally with seafood and shellfish. It’s about expressing Nova Scotia as a region,” Haverstock said. “But you can’t just say you’re going to make a Tidal Bay wine and throw it on a store shelf. You have to abide by the Tidal Bay standards when making the wine, and every year, samples of your Tidal Bay must be tested and approved by an independent tasting panel, which ensures both typicity of style and quality.”

Tidal Bay wines are crisp, aromatic white blends that must be made from grapes grown entirely within the province, and every vintage of each wine must be approved by an independent tasting panel.

All of the Gaspereau wines, including the Tidal Bay wines, are for sale at the winery boutique. They are also at most of the more than 100 Nova Scotia Liquor Corporation stores and private wine stores in the province. They also sell direct to consumers and have their wines at various licensees and restaurants throughout the province.

It should be noted that Gaspereau was initially planted as a satellite vineyard for Jost. When Gaspereau opened its doors as a winery in 2004, Jost continued to use a portion of the grapes from Gaspereau Vineyard, a practice that continues today. Their grapes are both machine-harvested and hand-harvested, depending on the variety and the block.

Since 2018, much of the equipment, resources and teams have been integrated between the wineries, which is why the Gaspereau team can access more staff and specialized equipment than most wineries of its size. For example, the wineries share a 2022 Gregoire Grape harvester among their estate vineyard sites as well as their contract grape growers. They also have two membrane presses: a Diemme Enologia Velvet 50 hectolitres (hL) initially purchased for Gaspereau, as well as a Bucher Vaslin 100 hL for Jost. “Both presses function well. One is a bit easier to clean and is a bit more intuitive to use, while the other has features for easier loading when whole cluster pressing,” Haverstock said.

The winery has always focused on cool-fermented whites in stainless steel and has concentrated its barrel program on reds. They use both French and Hungarian oak barrels. Oak is used sparingly to enhance the structure and supply subtle aromatics in balance with the fruit, rather than to overpower the cool-climate red style.

In 2024, Haverstock was awarded the Wine Growers Canada Karl Kaiser Winemaker of the Year Award. She is the first female winemaker and the first winemaker outside of British Columbia and Ontario to receive the prestigious annual award, which is named in memory of Karl Kaiser, one of the founders of the modern Canadian wine industry.

“To be associated with such accomplished individuals and to receive an award in memory of Karl Kaiser himself is truly humbling,” Haverstock said. “This award is not just a personal milestone, but a testament to the collaborative spirit and hard work of our entire team.”

The overall company is led by a management team with managers from sales and marketing, winemaking and grape growing, and finance and production that report directly to the Sparkes. The vineyards in the valley (both Mercator and Gaspereau) are managed by vineyard manager Becca Griffin and assistant vineyard manager Andrea Burbidge, with assistance from long-time Jost Vineyard manager Sven VonKintzel and oversight by Yvonne Schoening. They also have several contract grape growers whose grapes supplement the varieties needed for production.

Cellar master and winemaker Dave Beardsall has been with the team for more than 30 years, since 1991. “He is very much in control of the day-to-day operations, including ensuring the wine’s stability every step of the way, through filtration and right up until bottling time,” Haverstock said. Roles are intertwined, and many, including Haverstock, work at the sister wineries, too.

Harvest typically starts around mid-September, something that has shifted due to the warming effects of climate change. “I remember when we didn’t start harvest until after Thanksgiving,” said Haverstock. The 2025 vintage so far has been warm and dry, suggesting harvest may be earlier than usual, except for those areas experiencing drought conditions, which may experience a bit of a delay. “In either case, if the weather holds, we are poised for a stellar 2025 vintage with excellent quality and wines with concentrated flavours,” Haverstock said.

One thing they will be intensely monitoring is the flavour development and the acid reduction in the Tidal Bay blocks. “We want to achieve optimal flavour ripeness balanced by the essential backbone of acidity that is critical for Tidal Bay’s refreshing profile. Tidal Bay wines have a required minimum acid level,” she said. “It’s a balancing act, for sure.”

The company, Carl says, is planning an expansion and reconfiguration of their operations to improve productivity and reduce waste, something that is part of their commitment to sustainability. In the vineyard, they compost all harvest waste, and in the cellar and tasting room, they seek out sustainable supply chains, too. “Sustainability to us means creating balance and resilience to endure the storms, whether they are natural, economic or political,” Carl said.

Being a winery owner or winemaker is never easy, but this past year, the team has seen a resurgence in visitors, as people look to buy regional and locally-made Canadian products. That’s something that the winery team sees as important, too. They source local goods and services where possible, and they support arts, music, health and wellness charities and non-profits in their community. They also contribute to the Nova Scotia Nature Trust, a charitable organization that focuses on land conservation.

“We are part of a great community and support is a two-way street,” Carl said. “While we hope people in the community support local, we do it because it’s the right thing to do.” Supporting Wine Growers Canada is also important to the Gaspereau team. “Wine Growers Canada is the true voice of the industry in Canada. Membership means we get involved in issues that affect the entire industry in Canada and beyond. You gain a broader perspective and reach more than just within the industry in Nova Scotia,” said Carl.

For Haverstock, though, there may be nothing better than seeing her own region thriving. “I’m excited to see more people, tourists and locals alike, enjoy our high-quality wines paired with our province’s top-notch cuisine and delivered with our warm and welcoming hospitality,” she said. “And I’m excited to see the Nova Scotia wine industry continue to grow and prosper.”

This augmented North American perspective provides invaluable market data and consumer insights, offering a more complete picture of the challenges and opportunities facing the wine industry across the continent. The 2025 BMO Wine Market Report, the second edition of this important document, highlights an industry grappling with a complex mix of optimism and increasing challenges.

Despite a challenging 2024, vintners entered 2025 with optimism, which appears to have been well-founded in some areas, but met with new, daunting hurdles in others. Political and economic instability, along with excess inventory from the pandemic surge, have made business management difficult. A disappointing Q4 2024 revealed deeper consumer demand challenges than anticipated. The shock of U.S. tariffs and retaliatory measures imposed in early 2025, particularly impacting the Canadian market for U.S. wine exports, adds another layer of complexity.

However, the report also offers glimmers of hope, noting that the total U.S. wine market value grew four per cent in 2024, and many North American wineries experienced double-digit sales growth through expanded direct sales and distribution. The inclusion of data on Canadian wineries, with a total wine market volume of 53 million cases in 2024, is a significant addition. The report suggests that a restructuring of global trade, though painful, might ultimately help improve the flow of Canadian wine across provincial borders as wineries increasingly focus on direct sales.

WGC commends BMO for this expanded and insightful report and is committed to increasing the number of Canadian wineries participating in the 2026 and future BMO Wine Market Reports to ensure even more robust and representative data for the industry. This ongoing collaboration will be vital in supporting Canadian wine producers as they adapt to evolving market dynamics and consumer preferences.

Read the full report at www2.bmocm.com/2025-wine-report.

This year’s distinguished award winners are:

• Canadian Wine Industry Award of Distinction – The Founders of Inniskillin
• Canadian Wine Industry Champion Award – Richard Linley
• The Karl Kaiser Canadian Winemaker Award – Thomas Bachelder

The joint winners of the Canadian Wine Industry Award of Distinction – regarded as one of the highest forms of peer recognition in the Canadian wine industry – are the founders of Inniskillin: Donald Ziraldo, Karl Kaiser, Gerald Klose and Debi Pratt.

Founded 50 years ago, in July 1975, Inniskillin made history as the first winery in Canada to be granted a winery license since Prohibition. Ziraldo and Kaiser planned and planted the winery’s first vinifera vineyard in 1974, at a time when Canadian wine production was limited to labrusca grapes. Pratt and Klose then joined them, respectively playing pivotal roles in marketing and sales, and in viticulture.

“The complementary skills and knowledge of these four visionaries laid the groundwork for what would become an industry-defining winery, which went on to gain international recognition,” said Dan Paszkowski, president and CEO of Wine Growers Canada. “Winning the prestigious Grand Prix d’Honneur at VinExpo in Bordeaux, France, marked a significant turning point for the industry, showcasing the world-class potential of Canadian winemaking.”

The Wine Industry Champion Award is presented to an individual who has provided exemplary support to the Canadian wine industry through media, research, policy, education or advocacy. The recipient of the 2025 Wine Industry Champion Award was Richard Linley. “[Linley] led industry association Ontario Craft Wineries for 10 years, contributing hugely to the success of Ontario wineries over that period,” said Paszkowski.

The Karl Kaiser Canadian Winemaker Award celebrates greatly talented Canadian winemakers, in honour of the legacy of the late Karl Kaiser, a Canadian wine industry pioneer and viticultural visionary. The recipient of this year’s award was Thomas Bachelder, an internationally recognized Canadian winemaker and the founding winemaker of Le Clos Jordanne.

“[Bachelder’s] exceptional experience and genius in the production of cool-climate Pinot Noir and Chardonnay has truly put him on the global winemaking map,” said Paszkowski. “Not only do his wines excel, but further, he is genuinely invested in equipping and mentoring the next generation of winemakers, having been instrumental in the establishment of Ontario’s International Cool Climate Chardonnay Celebration (i4C) and always making time for fellow winemakers.”

To learn more about the Canadian Wine Industry Awards, visit winegrowerscanada.ca/canadian-wine-industry-awards/.

The sisters fell in love with Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ont., during their many visits as children with their family. “Given our European background – we’re Italian – we really connected with [Niagara-on-the-Lake],” said Angela. “We really love wine and food. Some of our most memorable moments with our family are being at a great restaurant, ordering a special bottle and enjoying a really good meal. I think we always knew that at some point in our lives, we’d be doing something related to wine, food and hospitality.”

In 2006, the sisters – who are only 19 months apart in age – heard about a peach orchard for sale next to the renowned Peller Estates winery. At the time, Angela was working in real estate and Melissa was an interior designer, but they knew the opportunity had arrived to create something new.

A year later, the first vines were planted. In 2010, just three years later, the first vintage was produced, focusing on Bordeaux varietals including Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. A few years after that, in 2014, Two Sisters Vineyards opened its doors.

Over the years, they gained land; they now farm more than 130 acres of vines in and around the Niagara-on-the-Lake region. They have also planted more varieties. In addition to the Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, they now grow Petit Verdot, Chardonnay, Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc. They make roughly 20 wines, including a Riesling icewine, a Cabernet Sauvignon icewine and four sparkling wines.

One especially popular offering is the Blanc de Franc, a traditional method sparkling wine made with 100 per cent Cabernet Franc, a red wine grape. Gentle pressing, however, leaves the wine with only the faintest trace of colour, and it then undergoes a second fermentation in the bottle, aging for more than two years on lees.

Another customer favourite is the Eleventh Post, which they first made in 2011, a proprietary blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. And they harvest select lots specifically for making their popular Margo Rosé.

Wines are currently only for sale at the winery and online at twosistersvineyards.com, through their wine club, and from select LCBO locations and restaurants throughout Ontario, including Toronto. However, as Two Sisters Vineyards celebrate more than a decade in business, the sisters are looking to expand sales beyond Ontario and into other provinces. “There are a lot of regulatory restrictions in Canada,” said Angela. “But change is coming and I’m looking forward to it.”

Angela and Melissa work together as the winery’s co-proprietors, overseeing planning, product development and customer service. Angela ensures their standards are always met in the vineyard and in the production facility, while Melissa focuses on staff training and direct marketing initiatives for consumers, as well as product design, messaging, packaging, events and winery and culinary experiences. The winery’s on-site restaurant, Kitchen76, offers an Italian-influenced menu focused on the best regional ingredients.

“Guided by our belief that food and wine are inseparable, we envisioned a dining experience that would perfectly complement the Two Sisters Vineyards wine experience,” said Melissa. “Kitchen76 is built on a foundation of excellence in customer service, knowledgeable staff and a commitment to using the freshest local produce and highly respected purveyors.”

This year, Angela and Melissa are also opening Stone Eagle Winery, an estate set on a beautiful 30-acre plot of land. The new property’s vineyards – including some hand-harvested blocks – span across Niagara-on-the-Lake, and the new space features two underground cellar floors as well as dining experiences and a space for special events.

It’s hard to be high-volume and then scale to something premium. Just start with premium.

Angela Marotta

The Stone Eagle wines were originally sold as an ultra-premium wine line under the Two Sisters Vineyards umbrella, but the line will now become its own entity. All production for both wineries, however, will be done at the Stone Eagle property. Like many fine wineries, the winemaking process begins in the vineyard, where the team focuses on minimal-intervention practices that allow the unique terroir of the Niagara River sub-appellation to shine through.

“When possible, our many vineyard blocks are vinified separately to ensure we capture the difference in each unique block, and so we can continue to fine-tune and learn from each site,” said Adam Pearce, winemaker at Two Sisters Vineyards. “Our winemaking and vineyard teams work very closely together to create optimal growing conditions for our vines and we employ an array of sustainable vineyard management practices.”

The right equipment is important for the Two Sisters team, too. A Gregoire EcoProtect 3 row recycling sprayer allows them to recapture more than 30 per cent of spray drift in the vineyard, Pearce adds. “Our sprays are carefully selected to maintain the health of the vines while being mindful of sustainability,” he said. “Specific treatments vary each year as they are tailored to the changing weather conditions and natural needs of the vineyard.”

Later in the growing season, they use mechanical leaf removal around grape clusters to allow for sunlight exposure promoting ripening and flavour development.

“We recently purchased a Gregoire GL7 mechanical grape harvester, which allows for energy efficiency, minimized soil compaction and optimal harvest timing, allowing for harvest to happen when grapes are at their peak,” said Pearce, who is also a graduate of Niagara College’s Winery and Viticulture program. They use a Pellenc destemmer, while red fermentation takes place in LASI Mythos closed system fermenters. They have an extensive barrel aging program, too.

“We use an array of coopers of French and American oak barrels. These barrels impart distinct flavours and textures to the wines, contributing to the complexity and character of the final product,” said Pearce. “We are always trialling new products and equipment, looking for more sustainable and efficient farming practices and ways to reduce environmental impact.”

Indeed, taking care of the land for future generations is important for the team. The winery is certified sustainable by Sustainable Winegrowing Ontario, a program that focuses on three key pillars – the environment, economy and community – and helps to safeguard the province’s vineyards for future generations.

Giving back to the community is also a big part of the winery’s operations. The Marotta family pledged $10 million to help build the South Niagara Hospital, the largest financial gift in the Niagara Health Foundation’s history. They made a $15 million donation to St. Catharine’s Hospital (now the Niagara Health Marotta Family Hospital) in 2024, and in 2018, they donated $1 million to Niagara College for its innovation centre, now named the Marotta Family Innovation Centre. Gillian’s Place, an organization that seeks to end gender-based violence in Niagara, received a $1.5 million donation from the family in 2023 for the creation of the Marotta Family Centre for Violence Prevention and Outreach Support.

“We have poured our hearts into supporting the community that has supported us,” said Melissa. “We also keep our internal community strong at the winery, by promoting from within to encourage growth and staff retention.”

They are also proud members of Wine Growers Canada. “Their dedicated work with the government plays a crucial role in supporting the wine industry nationwide,” said Melissa. “Their efforts, especially in lobbying for interprovincial trade, help break down barriers, ensuring greater access and growth opportunities for Canadian wineries like ours.”

The sisters’ diverse backgrounds gave them good experience dealing with the public, plus sound financial sense and backing. However, the first few years weren’t without their challenges. “[We experienced] so many [challenges] – just finding our rhythm, testing experiences, figuring out what worked and what didn’t,” Angela said. “We had to learn where one door closes, another really does open. But you have to be aware of all the opportunities around you to make that happen.”

Nor is it easy, of course, to run a family business. The sisters keep things separate as much as possible between work and family. “Melissa has four kids, and I have three,” said Angela. “We have very busy lives, so we try to give each other a lot of space outside of work.” But they also communicate – a lot.

“We really make an effort to listen to each other. We listen, we talk things through and when there is a disagreement between us, we refer to our team and our lead staff to get their feedback,” said Angela. “They see things we don’t always see. It allows for a different perspective and helps make space for good opportunities.”

With more than a decade in the business, they have plenty of advice for those thinking of beginning something similar. “Start small and focus on quality, because quality is always appreciated and that gives you the longevity in this business,” Angela said. “It’s hard to be high-volume and then scale to something premium. Just start with premium.”

Listen to all customer feedback and react quickly when changes need to be made, she adds. If a wine event doesn’t result in sales, for instance, something isn’t working. “Every year, we change things a little bit with our wine education programs and tours, just to be sure we aren’t stale,” Angela said. “We are constantly observing and listening to what people have to say.”

The sisters have no intention of stepping back from the winery any time soon, but they also realize that as a family-owned business, there needs to be a plan for future generations. With that in mind, their children are already involved in many aspects of the business, working at the winery every summer.

“We intend to stay family-owned for the second and third generation and beyond,” Angela said. “This is a long-term game.”