Fermentation, the process that transforms raw ingredients into complex, flavourful drinks, is at the core of this evolution. With advancements in real-time monitoring, producers can now track fermentation variables such as temperature, pH levels and sugar content with unprecedented accuracy. This allows for immediate adjustments to optimise conditions, resulting in better control and higher-quality final products.

Ontario winemakers, for example, are using advanced spectroscopic sensors that analyze fermentation in real time, measuring the concentration of key compounds. This enables vintners to intervene at critical moments, fine-tuning the fermentation process to enhance flavour profiles and ensure batch-to-batch consistency. These innovations not only improve wine quality, but also reduce waste and increase efficiency.

Escarpment Laboratories, a leading Canadian yeast producer, is at the forefront of fermentation innovation. Their approach is “research-driven and collaborative, focusing on solving practical brewing challenges such as flavour consistency, fermentation speed and off-flavours,” said co-founder Richard Preiss. By developing custom yeast strains, they aim to provide brewers with solutions that enhance both efficiency and flavour expression.

One such innovation is EL-D1 House Ale, designed to outperform common strains like US-05 by delivering faster, cleaner fermentations without compromising complexity. For hazy IPA enthusiasts, Escarpment Laboratories created Pomona, a strain that enhances tropical aromas through superior biotransformation while ensuring robust fermentation and stable haze retention. Through ongoing research and collaboration, the company continues to push the boundaries of fermentation science, empowering brewers with high-performing, flavour-forward yeast solutions. The role of yeast genetics in fermentation cannot be overstated.

“By analyzing genomes, we link gene expression to key traits like flavour production, stress tolerance and fermentation speed. We have invested in building a database of brewing yeast whole genome sequences and are continuously adding new genomic analysis to our knowledge base,” said Preiss.

Strain development methods include selective yeast breeding, adaptive laboratory evolution and targeted gene editing. Understanding how genetics influence flavour and efficiency allows Escarpment to tailor strains for specific outcomes. Notable examples include Elysium, bred for high pineapple aroma, and TERPS, evolved to enhance citrusy terpene aromas.

For craft brewers, balancing scientific advancements with traditional techniques remains a key focus. In Quebec City’s Limoilou district, Grégory Lavoie of LEFOL Brewery embraces a time-honoured approach, producing small-batch Belgian-style beers that are fermented and aged for six months to three years in barrels previously used for wine and bourbon. While he recognizes the value of new developments in yeast science, he remains firmly rooted in traditional brewing methods.

“I’d be happy to experiment with new yeast strains that simplify the process or bring unique aromatic profiles,” Lavoie said. “That said, if no new advancements or yeast strains ever emerged again, I wouldn’t be disappointed. I could still create new flavours using my small collection of 20 yeast strains simply by adjusting temperature, oxygenation and inoculation parameters.”

Escarpment Labs’ yeast innovations help brewers create beers that stand out.

“Enhanced biotransformation allows for more intense hop aromas with fewer hops, improving cost-efficiency and sustainability. Custom strains like Elysium, TERPS, Superfog and Pomona empower brewers to achieve distinctive, stable flavour profiles,” Preiss said.

As Canadian producers seek to distinguish themselves, many are turning to wild fermentation techniques and indigenous yeast strains to create truly regional flavours. By embracing local biodiversity, they craft beverages that reflect their unique terroir. This focus enhances quality and uniqueness, and promotes sustainability by reducing reliance on imported strains. On Vancouver Island, winemaker Brent Rowland of Averill Creek Vineyard follows a low-intervention philosophy, relying exclusively on native yeast to ferment his wines.

“I don’t add nutrients, enzymes or yeast – it’s just letting the grapes ferment naturally,” he said. Having worked 25 harvests around the world before settling in British Columbia, Rowland has found that wild fermentations, while slower and sometimes unpredictable, yield more expressive and complex results. With spontaneous fermentation, where wort is exposed to ambient air to be inoculated with wild yeasts and bacteria, the balance between tradition and scientific rigour is particularly crucial.

“Many of the yeast strains we use come from the LABO in La Pocatiere [Que.]. For our spontaneous fermentation program, we’ve received valuable advice from Gerald Bourdaudhui, formerly the scientific director at LABO and now senior innovation advisor at ERAC,” said Lavoie. This rigorous approach ensures that brewers maintain control over their fermentation parameters while still embracing the complexity of traditional techniques.

Looking ahead, Escarpment Labs is particularly excited about advancements in yeast-driven aroma production, low and non-alcoholic fermentation strategies and sustainable fermentation processes. By developing yeast strains that reduce dry hopping needs or minimize temperature control requirements, they are paving the way for more efficient and eco-friendly brewing methods.

“We believe these trends will drive a future where brewers can create beers with greater efficiency and sustainability,” said Preiss. Ongoing exploration of yeast biotransformation pathways and genetic hybrids is expected to unlock new flavour categories and beer styles.

As they continue to experiment with custom yeast strains, wild fermentation and real-time monitoring, Canadian producers are proving that the art of fermentation is far from static. Instead, it is an ever-evolving process – one that blends history, science and craftsmanship to create beverages that are as complex and intriguing as the landscapes they come from.

The new Pink Boots Yeast Strain, a versatile Kölsch strain originally from Germany, can be used for a wide variety of beer styles – making it a perfect choice for brewers looking to bring a unique and personal touch to their brew. It offers brewers crisp, bright, white wine-like aromas in light ales and enhances biotransformation and haze in hoppy IPAs, making it an ideal choice for hop-forward brews. Its ability to elevate citrus-forward flavours brings a unique, bold profile to any beer.

A perfect match for the Pink Boots hop blend and malt, this strain makes it easier for breweries to brew with purpose while supporting the mission of Pink Boots Society Canada. A generous 15 per cent of proceeds from each sale will go directly toward funding scholarships and programs that empower women and non-binary individuals to grow their careers in the brewing industry.

The Pink Boots Yeast Strain is available for order now through the Escarpment Labs website or by contacting sales@escarpmentlabs.com. To learn more about Pink Boots Society Canada’s annual Collaboration Brew Days and its ongoing efforts to support underrepresented groups in brewing, visit pinkbootscanada.com/brew-days.

Both companies were founded in 2015 and have spent a decade supporting breweries with high-quality yeast and expert advice. Escarpment Laboratories is known for its cutting-edge yeast strain development, fermentation education and export capabilities. Le Labo has earned its reputation for consulting expertise, non-alcoholic yeast solutions and serving Quebec and Francophone markets.

“Working together, we can strengthen the Canadian yeast supply chain,” said Richard Preiss, co-founder of Escarpment Laboratories. “Breweries across Canada now have the best local option to overcome trade risks, currency fluctuations and supply delays, while supporting Canadian innovation.”

Maxime Clement, co-founder of Le Labo, said, “Together, we’re empowering breweries of all sizes across Canada with unmatched selection, reliability and expertise. This partnership ensures a thriving Canadian brewing community.”

Key Benefits

The combined company will bring a wealth of expertise and resources to Canadian brewers, including:

• Canadian Unity: Support local by sourcing high-quality, Canadian-made yeast. Strengthen the Canadian brewing ecosystem and reduce dependence on foreign suppliers.
• Canadian Reliability: Eliminate risks of cost and supply fluctuations from exchange rates, tariffs and trade disruptions with a resilient, Canadian-grown yeast supply.
• Selection and Innovation: Access to a broader range of yeast strains, non-alcoholic options and cutting-edge fermentation solutions. The merger enables more investment in research and development to meet evolving industry needs.

The leadership team of the combined business includes Maxime Clement and Jean-Pierre Tirman of Le Labo, as well as Richard Preiss, Nate Ferguson and Angus Ross of Escarpment Laboratories. Escarpment Laboratories will exchange shares with Le Labo, which will become a subsidiary of Escarpment, with Maxime Clement serving as Quebec Manager. Facilities will remain operational in Guelph, Ont., and La Pocatière, Que., ensuring seamless procurement and service for breweries nationwide.

Operational changes will be phased in over the next four to six months to ensure a smooth transition. Together, the combined business will serve over 500 breweries across Canada and expand its reach to high-profile clients in the U.S., Europe and Asia. The announced merger is subject to customary consents and closing conditions.

For more information, contact Escarpment Labs or Le Labo Solutions Brassicoles.

Key components of the project include:

• Existing yeast production workshop upgrades.
• New state-of-the-art machinery and dry yeast transport and cleaning equipment.
• Fully cleanable production lines in both humid and dry conditions, to reduce possible cross contamination.
• Additional quality control checks to eliminate any leaks, soft bags or labelling errors including an intelligent camera system.
• A self-storage system featuring robot cells for automatic packaging, transport and intermediate storage.
• Innovative new packaging updates, including easy-to-open features, unique QR codes for improved product traceability, and on-demand customizable secondary label printing to meet market- or customer-specific requirements.

Stéphane Meulemans, general manager at Fermentis, said, “We are thrilled to see the results of another big investment in our future: a brand-new production line in one of our key factories of the Lesaffre Group. This new facility has allowed us to raise the quality of our yeast to new standards, unheard of in the industry.”

Geert Van Renterghem, general manager at Algist Bruggeman, said, “A well-functioning team has the power to achieve extraordinary results and this has been my overwhelming experience with this project. The collaborative spirit is a hallmark for our organization, driving cutting-edge advancements in the quality of our end products, exceptional customer service and responsible resource management. Our commitment to sustainable energy and water use underscores our dedication to protecting and preserving the planet.”

Fermentis creates fermentation and characterization solutions for brewers, winemakers and all producers of beverages. The company is a business unit of Lesaffre Group, a global key player in yeast and all its applications for over 170 years. All fermentation products from Fermentis are developed with unsurpassed expertise under meticulous production procedures, which guarantees the highest microbiological quality and maximum fermentation activity.

Although Raft deals with each situation uniquely, over the years they have accumulated knowledge that can be applied to all beverage manufacturers. Here are seven lessons learned from case studies in beer spoilage.

Lesson 1 – An ounce of prevention

“Breweries should have scheduled inspection and maintenance programs,” said Christine Dawson, operations manager at Raft. While it may seem obvious that preventative maintenance will reduce the risk of spoiled beer making it to market – at which point it will have already done damage to licensee and customer relationships – Raft’s experience is that breweries could be doing better.

“I’ve seen breweries that are many years old that have never replaced their gaskets.”

Gaskets are easy to inspect and cheap to replace, but a good inspection and maintenance program should involve every piece of equipment. For example, Raft worked with one brewery that was having a problem with yeast contamination. After working through all the usual places yeast can hide, they eventually determined that the culprit was a crack in a yeast brink.

“It doesn’t take much space for microbes to take hold,” said Dawson. However, the crack was visible and regular inspections with cameras and lights could have prevented the problem.

Lesson 2 – Don’t everreact

“We worked with a brewery that was using a countertop [polymerase chain reaction (PCR)] kit,” said Dawson. “They were experiencing many positive hits for lactic acid bacteria and were dumping the infected beer.”

Since the brewery was continuously dumping beer, they approached Raft with the intention of finding the source of the bacterial infection. As it turns out, the PCR kit was returning positive results because the bacterial DNA was present, but Raft was able to determine that the bacteria was not live and was not capable of spoiling the beer.

The brewery was then able to stop dumping beer and relieve the pressure to find the source of the bacterial DNA. “You need to approach lab results with a scientific eye,” said Dawson. “Question readings so you can find what the real problem is.”

Lesson 3 – Don’t underreact

One brewery Raft worked with would sometimes get positive results for very low levels of wild yeast. Since nothing ever happened, after a time the brewery began to ignore those positive results and stopped doing appropriate follow-ups.

Eventually, cans in the market started popping, causing complaints from retailers and customers. While it is important not to overreact, keeping beer cans at room temperature after each positive wild yeast result would have been an easy and economical way to monitor for problems. Just because one positive result had no consequences does not mean they all will. Always complete appropriate quality assurance and quality control follow-ups.

Lesson 4 – Already looked everywhere? Look everywhere else

Most breweries know to sanitize all their brewing equipment and everything that comes in contact with beer. However, in a brewery, beer goes everywhere, including places that aren’t obvious, so breweries are advised to look in these inconspicuous places once all the obvious places have been eliminated as the source of the problem.

“You need to approach lab results with a scientific eye. Question readings so you can find what the real problem is.”

Christine Dawson, Raft Brew Labs

One Raft case study found that microbes had taken hold in the gas line on a canning line. The gas line sprays carbon dioxide at the top of a filled can prior to seaming. This creates a pocket of CO2 over the beer and blows foam away from the lip of the can to ensure a better seam. However, that also means beer is sprayed around and tiny droplets of beer were eventually able to make their way into the gas line, which otherwise never actually touches beer.

Lesson 5 – Changes made cause changes seen

Another Raft client was experiencing refermentation in packaged beer. Cans had to be recalled as they were building up pressure and popping on store shelves. Testing ruled out wild yeast, bacteria and residual sugars. By reviewing recipes and processes, Raft was able to determine that the culprit was the addition of pectinase to improve the clarity of the brewery’s beer.

Ironically, the addition of the enzyme caused refermentation. By focusing on recipe changes, Raft was able to determine these changes were what caused the sudden appearance of refermentation, a problem the brewery had never encountered before.

Lesson 6 – The best case studies are non-case studies

All of these case studies are interesting because something went wrong, but the best case studies are the ones where everything goes right. That means doing regular microbial analyses to catch problems when something can still be done about them – before the brewery becomes a case study of its own.

Many small breweries need to solve problems in inventive ways and while these hacks are great, they can expose those breweries to risks, but those risks can be mitigated. Dawson says one brewery was transferring sour beer in an unconventional way. This was done to solve a tank space issue, but it eventually resulted in some cross-contamination. Another brewery was using a novel knockout procedure, which caused some equipment to acquire microbial infection.

In both these cases, the infections grew slowly. As there were no immediate issues, the novel solutions appeared to be working, but the microbes eventually grew to be a problem. Periodic microbial analysis would have caught these problems before bad beer made it to market.

Don’t be the next case study.

Lesson 7 – Shake failures

There was a time when brewers were tight-lipped about their problems. However, as Raft has been sharing its case studies at trade shows and conferences, breweries inevitably approach Dawson afterward to say that the same thing happened to them.

Friends can’t help to solve each other’s problem unless they know a problem exists, so breweries sharing information among one another is a great, cost-effective way to improve overall beer quality.

Despite its global reach, Lallemand is a Canadian company. Since 1952, it has been owned and operated by the Chagnon family and it is headed by Antoine Chagnon, part of the third generation of the family to be involved. However, the company’s roots go back much further to an Alsatian immigrant in the 19th century who started a baking yeast business in Montreal, Que.

The Chagnon family, company headquarters and research facilities, and most of the team’s Canadian employees are still located in Montreal, but there are also production facilities and offices in Ontario. Yeast plants are located in 14 countries, including Austria, Canada, Germany, Portugal and Italy. These days, in addition to baking yeasts, Lallemand has products for brewers, distillers and, of course, winemakers.

While there’s much talk about spontaneous (wild) yeasts in winemaking circles these days, it may not be the correct choice for many wineries as the risks involved – stuck fermentation, unpredictable results, etc. – can be expensive, time-consuming and unpalatable. That’s why commercial yeast is essential as the guesswork has been removed, which allows winemakers to focus on other aspects of their wine.

“We don’t really create yeasts,” said Gordon Specht, Lallemand’s area manager, North America. “We simply select the best from nature.”

It takes about four years, and sometimes as long as seven, to select and develop a commercial yeast product. A Lallemand or university researcher will take samples at a winery or processing facility, and then set up test fermentations to see if the yeast shows potential, asking the following questions: Does it ferment well? Does it ferment quickly? Is it strong and active? How does the resulting wine taste?

We don’t really create yeasts. We simply select the best from nature.

Gordon Specht, Lallemand

“Sometimes we’ll find one that seems to check all the boxes: It’s a reliable fermenter. It doesn’t produce any funky or off aromas or flavours,” Specht said. “Then we see if we are able to dry it and offer it in a commercial format.”

Most wineries buy yeasts in an active dried form. “It has less than eight per cent moisture content, so it’s quite stable,” Specht said. “And it can be stored at the winery for a long time.” A typical yeast is shelf-stable for up to four years. “After that, they lose their robustness,” he said. “It takes them longer to wake up.”

Lallemand Oenology offers about 100 wine yeasts, all geared toward specific grapes, fermentation conditions and winemaking styles. Winemakers can request charts to help choose the yeasts and specific yeast derivatives they need to express the flavour profiles they want in their wines.

The Lallemand Oenology team, which includes top microbiologists, food engineers and oenologists from around the world, works with oenology schools and research centres to develop new products. They collaborate with the University of British Columbia Wine Research Centre, Niagara College’s Winery and Viticulture Technician Program and Brock University’s Oenology and Viticulture Program, testing on small batches of yeasts. International collaborations are also key to Lallemand’s business.

Lalvin New Burgundy Chardonnay is a vigorous new yeast strain that was isolated from Chardonnay fermented in France by the Centre Oenologique de Bourgogne. Lallemand’s researchers selected it because it is a reliable fermenter and it has the ability to contribute to a fresh, refined Chablis style with mineral, citrus and floral notes.

“It’s very good at complimenting styles that are more flinty and mineral, more of a classic Chablis style,” said Specht. “This is for that lean, crisp, fresh mineral style of Chardonnay, not that fatty, oaky, creamy style.”

Another new Lallemand product is the Level 2 Initia Metschnikowia Pulcherrima, a non-Saccharomyces yeast selection that helps protect white and rosé juice from oxidation during the winemaking process. From a selection made by Vincent Gerbaux at the Institut Francais de la Vigne et du Vin in Beaune, France, it results in fresher aromatics and brighter colours for white and rosé wines.

Saccharomyces is the typical food yeast used in baking, distilling and winemaking, and has been a primary part of the Lallemand Oenology catalogue since the get-go. However, these days the team has also been putting a lot of research emphasis on non-Saccharomyces yeasts, exploring their potential in the winemaking process. Lallemand offers five different types in North America, and they can already see where these products are proving to be useful for winemakers, Specht says.

Our basic philosophy is to find unique products to help winemakers. We are always looking toward the future.

Gordon Specht, Lallemand

One appeal is their protective capabilities, which help to keep freshness and slow oxidation. “Normally, the only way you can achieve this protective effect in winemaking is by adding [sulphur dioxide],” Specht said. “But you can add a non-Saccharomyces yeast selection such as the Level 2 Inita, and you’re able to achieve as good if not better antioxidant effects.

“There is interest in the wine industry in general in lowering the number of chemical inputs such as SO2. Something like this can really help and it will certainly improve the fruit quality of the wine.”

Another new Lallemand product is Go-Ferm Sterol Flash, a yeast rehydration protector for yeast preparation, to be used with cool water. Providing the same benefits to yeast as Lallemand’s Go-Ferm Protect Evolution, this new yeast protector doesn’t require warm water for preparation. It saves time, labour and water, which is especially important these days, and the yeast’s growth isn’t compromised.

“Before, winemakers would typically use warm water, add the yeast protector and, once it was in suspension, you could add the yeast. The overall process would take more than an hour,” Specht said. “But with Go-Ferm Sterol Flash, the entire process takes about 15 to 20 minutes. It’s a big time saver for winemakers and their cellar staff.” Feedback so far has been overwhelmingly positive since the product was launched in Canada in 2023. “Anything that saves time during crush is a big plus,” Specht said.

Also new in Canada, Stimula Pinot Noir, is a high-nitrogen yeast nutrient powder that is added at the start of fermentation to optimize a yeast’s ability to produce red and black fruit aromas, while simultaneously masking herbaceous and vegetal notes.

“It will help direct the style, but it will not make fruit from different areas taste the same,” Specht said. “If you are starting with fruit that is very light, a very finesse-oriented Pinot Noir, for instance, it will help you continue in that direction. It works with what you’re starting with.”

With a focus on innovation, the Lallemand Oenology team has plenty of new projects and products in the works, including inactivated yeast sprays to push phenolic maturity, so ripening is more consistent. “In general, we are looking at anything that can replace chemical inputs, whether it’s in the vineyard or in the cellar,” Specht said.

“Our basic philosophy is to find unique products to help winemakers. We are always looking toward the future.”

In the early days, Lallemand sold yeast to bakeries. Today, it is a global leader in yeast, bacteria, enzymes and other specialty ingredients across many industries, including all facets of beverage alcohol. With 5,000 employees in 45 countries on five continents, Lallemand now has tens of thousands of alcohol producers using its products. Where there is alcohol, there is Lallemand.

Lallemand’s entry into beverage alcohol began in 1970. At the time, alcohol makers produced their own yeast. Canada’s famous distillery, Seagram’s, would often call Lallemand to help solve problems it was having with its yeast. Eventually, Lallemand offered to make the yeast for Seagram’s and an entirely new industry was born.

Today, Lallemand touches all aspects of beverage alcohol with separate business units in beer, wine and distilled spirits. “We are a big company with many small business units,” said Annick Mercier, business area manager, Caribbean & North America, distilled spirits. This is part of Lallemand’s magic. These business units are focused on solving the problems within their respective industries.

“We have no pure salespeople. All of our sales staff are technical experts, so they understand the day-to-day problems alcohol makers face. They are not selling products; they are selling the best solution to the problem,” said Chagnon. “There is yeast everywhere, but we are good at selecting the right yeast to produce the desired outcome, producing the right quality and knowing the applications. And our people have a contagious passion.”

While Lallemand is divided into business units based on the clients the company serves, it puts a lot of effort into behaving like a small company, sharing ideas across business units and around the world. For example, an innovation in the wine business created a yeast strain that does not produce sulphur. By sharing ideas, it was determined that the same technology could be applied to beer, resulting in a non-sulphurous lager yeast.

Cross-pollinated ideas can even come from outside beverage alcohol. Lallemand had an anti-oxidation technology it was using for bread yeast. When someone from the wine business unit heard about it, they knew it could solve a problem in winemaking; another new product was born. “Nobody has a monopoly on good ideas,” said Chagnon. “Even when we do an acquisition, our decentralized structure ensures we learn from that business as much as they are learning from us.”

Lallemand also finds ideas outside of its own organization. Although it has a global team of researchers and product developers, it often partners with independent research labs to commercialize their good ideas. Lallemand’s global reach and strength in production and distribution allows partner companies to focus on their own strengths. “Culturally, we are open to ideas,” said Chagnon.

Lallemand’s success across products, industries, geographies and even time is multi-faceted. However, when asked what makes Lallemand special, Chagnon does not hesitate to answer: the people. “Many can produce yeast,” he said, “and indeed our quality is very high. But when customers choose Lallemand, it is not the products that set us apart. It is what comes with the product: the people and the knowledge.”

Although it operates globally, Lallemand is a proudly Canadian company. “As a supplier, we are proud to support the Canadian industry and elevate it,” said Chagnon. “There is now a global interest in Canadian craft alcohol and even the well-established brands are seeing renewed interest in their products on the world stage.” Chagnon points to all of the international awards Canadian beverage alcohol producers have been winning as proof the world is paying attention.

It is with this backdrop of success that Lallemand looks to the future. “We are in the very lucky position of being able to work on innovations in many areas,” said Chagnon. “Research in our health and wellness business, which are exploring the beneficial uses of probiotics and reducing disease without the use of antibiotics, could have targeted uses in food and beverage applications.”

Lallemand is also working on environmental issues. “As producers of micro-organisms, we have a lot of potential to reduce environmental impact,” said Chagnon. “Micro-organisms can be made to recapture carbon or produce replacements for petrochemicals.” While these innovations may have no direct impact on fermenting beverage alcohol today, the practice of cross-pollinating ideas means there will always be new and exciting innovations available to Canada’s beverage alcohol makers in the future.

Lallemand already has products that can reduce the environmental impact of alcohol production. For example, LalBrew NovaLager, a brewer’s yeast made to ferment lager, works at a higher temperature and ferments cleaner, reducing fermentation time. Wine and brewer’s yeast strains that do not produce off-flavours reduce tank time and improve turnover. These improvements can have a huge impact on energy consumption. The explosive growth in craft beverage makers is exciting to Lallemand.

“We want to understand what is going on with projects beverage alcohol makers are working on,” Chagnon said. “We have a team of people in the market who can bring feedback to the company to drive our research and development. Come to us and tell us what you want. We might have a solution from another business unit, or it could start new research and development.”

For Lallemand, the future is still fermenting.